Saturday, December 23

We bolt in early morning excitement from the compound when what sounds like a marching parade of singing men passes. It is the SPLA marching through the street in camouflage uniforms, guns at their sides, their flag held high. The SPLA is largely comprised of members of the Dinka tribe, though this area is populated mostly by Zande. Hence, the tribal tension.

Donning jackets to fight off the morning coolness, we walk the village. The townspeople, seemingly oblivious to the chill, are doing their usual thing. Men on fancy bicycles adorned with plastic flowers, women carrying buckets and bowls on their heads, children without pants or shoes running about. The children love to greet us, to touch our hands and say “bye, bye.” We happen by the Catholic Church, which is the heart of this town, hoping to take in some of the service. Unfortunately, it is just ending. Women with babies line every pew in this Spartan but substantial church; one is breastfeeding her child. We meet one of the ushers who tells us that his job is essentially to make people behave and to ensure that no one who enters is drunk. We peak into the nearby brick school. Part of the roof had collapsed in a wind storm. The rooms have no blackboards, no seats, no desks; they are only four walls. It’s said that 100 kids crowd into each classroom – so many that pupils have no room to sit.

We tour the MSF (Doctors Without Borders) facilities at the county hospital. They have been managing an eight-bed pediatric ward and a 15-bed sleeping sickness ward. Sleeping sickness is endemic in this area, but MSF has managed to decrease the prevalence from 20% of the population to .05%. Hence, the sleeping sickness ward only has one patient and MSF is leaving this town permanently. The scene at the hospital is unlike any I’ve seen, but is typical for Africa. Families members sit outside, cooking food for their relatives. Other patients lay on mats outside to stay cool. Naked healthy babies with bulging bellies. Little girls with baby brothers and sisters on their hips. All are interested in looking at or interacting with the foreigners.

Later that evening, in the darkened stillness, I hear that the singing and dancing has begun anew. The Christmas celebration continues.